I Can Build…Blocks Center
Are you tired of cheap toys, cheap electronic toys, cheap plastic toys, cheap I Can Build…Blocks Center electronic toys? Do you want to craft something for that special child in your life?
Or have a neat coffee table toy? Well, I have the project for you. This one will bring you back to your childhood, and when it’s done, it’s something that everyone will marvel at. 3 2×4 into a set of your very own, homemade blocks. We have seven shapes in our set, the brick, the long bridge, the short bridge, the square, the square column, the round column, and the triangle. Feel free to create your own shapes as you see fit!
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Originally, I made a set of blocks when my youngest son was 2. However, shortly after making them, we gave them to my nieces for Christmas. Unfortunately, we never got around to making another set Until now. My sister-in-law was lamenting the toy choices for my niece, and I offered to make a set of blocks. And we decided to document as an instructable.
As a matter of fact, try finding a set of wooden blocks to buy. As straight, and ding free as possible. Before we cut out our blocks, we need to determine the dimensions of our blocks. As a 2X4 is really 1. 5, most of the pieces use the 3. This are the dimensions i used.
Now that we have our block dimensions, we need to get to the cutting! I used my compound miter saw, if you don’t have one, you can use a handsaw and a miter box. First, I started by cutting all of my pieces that were 3. To ensure a consistency in the length, I clamped a wooden block to my miter saw 3. This basically acted like a fence so I wouldn’t have to measure and mark each individual piece.
I used this fence to cut the square, the square that would become triangles, the round column and the square column. For the square column, I had a piece of 2×4 I had previously ripped into a 1. Second, I set the ‘fence’ to 5″ and cut four pieces that would become the bridge pieces. Next, I set my wooden block ‘fence’ to 7″ and cut the brick pieces from the 2×4. Lastly, I set the blade on the saw to cut at 45degrees. I then placed a square under the blade, and cut into two triangles. At this point you should have all your pieces roughed out.
To create the bridge pieces we need two additional steps. 5″ hole in the center of the block. This can be accomplished by using a 2. First, we need to find the center of the block. The drill bit I had was not deep enough to cut through a 2×4, so I had to drill from both sides.
8″ pilot hole completely through the center and then proceed to use the hole bit on each side. Both sides should meet up and now you are ready for step 2. Using a table saw, cut the blocks in half. For a short bridge, set the fence to 2. 5″ For the long bridge, sent the fence to 1. Get your push stick, and slowly cut the pieces in half. Now you should have all your pieces cut out!
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Step 4: Sand, Sand , Sand! Since we don’t want any splinters, it’s time to sand. You have your choice when it comes to sanding. Regardless of tool, the methods are the same.
Start with a rougher grit like an 80, and then move on to a finer grit like a 120. And if you want to go even smoother, you can do a 240. Its no fun breathing in all that saw dust. Now that sanding is complete, you can finish as you see fit.
You can go classic and just put on a nice coat of polyurethane. Or paint with some primary or pastel colors. Give them to your favorite kid, or kid at heart. Or keep them on your coffee table. They are almost IMPOSSIBLE to resist when they are done. PS – special thanks to Max, my number one assistant and photographer.
We have a be nice policy. As it is made up of wood so its kind of green toys. This exactly what i was looking for. Thanks, can’t wait to make and paint a set for my nephew.
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Just a pile of blocks is lots of fun for all kids – even us “older” kids! For the educationally minded, “unit” blocks made to a ratio of 1:2:4 in large enough quantity to allow for the construction of almost anything are fantastic! Cheers – I have to go play now! I never hear of the unit block ratio Good to know! I think the perfect time to make blocks for children is in conjunction with a baby shower.
Nowadays, men and women get invitations to baby showers. We made a set of blocks for my 1 year old for Christmas and he loves them. Because he puts everything in his mouth we chose to seal his blocks with mineral oil because it is non-toxic. If you weren’t wearing gloves and your hand got caught in the belt would the result be any better? Gloves can turn a “minor” power tool injury into a catastrophe.
Or pull you in when there may have been no injury in the first place. Instructables will help you learn how to make anything! There are few things as relaxing as a warm fire on a cool evening. An outdoor fire pit makes any patio or backyard into a great gathering place where friends and family can eat, talk, or just rest by the fire. While you can build a fire pit from rock or have one poured, this fantastic do-it-yourself version from the folks at Progressive Farmer magazine uses bricks or cinder blocks and offers clear step-by-step instructions and a materials list to help make your project both fun and easy. The installation is pretty quick — you can build a fire pit in just one day — and doesn’t cost a whole lot, especially if you look for a sale on bricks at the end of the season at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
You can even occasionally find bricks for free when someone tears down a structure or replaces their driveway. STONES We built this fire pit from landscaping blocks. You can use field stone or other materials too. Concrete blocks may deteriorate from the heat, but they are cheap to replace. DRAINAGE In the bottom center of the pit, we dug a fencepost-sized hole 2 feet deep and filled it with gravel.
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The hole works like a sump, helping to drain rainwater. It’s a quicker way to build the fire pit. If you have to replace cracked or broken stones, dry-stacking makes that job easier as well. If you want to cement the courses, lay cement down only on the outside half of the stones to protect the cement from the heat.
SAFETY This fire pit is built in a wooded area. Before we started the fire, we soaked the area around the pit with water. We also had 5-gallon buckets of water and a shovel handy to put out any stray fires. We bought the ring and grate as specialty items from a garden store. We couldn’t find a place to order these pieces from on the Internet, so we’d suggest welding your own or having them produced at a welding shop. The retaining wall blocks used in this project were 12 inches wide, 4 inches high and 8 inches deep. We purchased about one-half ton each of sand and gravel.
We dug a hole 2 feet wider than the fire pit–about 7 feet across. Make the hole round by hammering a stake into the center of your fire pit area. 2-inch length of string over the stake and mark the circle. Dig out 12 inches of soil. Shovel in 4 inches of gravel and 4 inches of sand. Onto that base, lay down the base course of blocks.
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Make sure this course is level in all directions. Fill the space outside of the blocks with gravel. We used the steel ring that will hold the grill in place to ensure each course is round and of the correct diameter. We purchased the ring from a garden supply store.
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To keep the courses perpendicular to each other and level to the ground, hang a piece of string over the edge of the top-most course. When each course touches this string–and the string is touching the base course–all the courses are roughly perpendicular. Use a brush to clean debris from the surface of the previous layer. Overlap the layers of stone, leaving three or four random gaps between stones in every course. The gaps allow the fire to draw air into itself.
They may get out of alignment, but realignment is easy. We learned something the hard way: put gravel into the center of the fire pit after you’ve stacked a couple of courses. Then spread it evenly when you’re finished. Before you lay the final course of stone, set the steel ring in place. Then add the final layer of stone onto the lip of the ring. As originally built, the fire pit was seven layers tall–each layer took 14 stones–and about 25 inches tall. But we have found that the fires burn even better once we removed one layer of stone.
Our detailed video demonstrates the making of this easy DIY project from start to finish. We have a be nice policy. People have fire pits so they can stare into the flames when they are drunk. That’s why our family has one! Nice blog for how to build an outdoor fire pit.
I’m searching google for some amazing review of outdoor fire pit. This is a pretty good design and build. I am pleased to see the drainage included, as many people tend to skip this stage. However, I prefer to have a 6″ deep layer of gravel over the whole area of the bottom of the fire pit.
Its easier than digging a two foot deep hole. It works perfectly for drainage, as it is a large surface area. It forms an ideal base on which to set your fire. As an alternative you can also use the same fire pit liner to make an in-ground fire pit. We used a washing machine bowl and attached it to an old mowed frame so we could move it around,also put in storage when not needed. The hardest part was digging the hole. I didn’t build it as high or line it with any sort of ring.
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I’m a bit anxious about lighting it up! After a couple years of use, some of the bricks are starting to crack. I’ll have to replace a few come spring. No explosive cracking, the cracks just seem to show up. Instructables will help you learn how to make anything! Please forward this error screen to sharedip-10718050165. It’s possible to lay patio pavers directly on grass without digging, but you likely won’t be happy with the results.
Can You Put Patio Blocks on Top of Grass Without Digging? Proper installation means you’ll have an even patio that lasts for years. Using patio pavers, you can build a simple and attractive walkway or seating area without the need for mixing, pouring and leveling concrete. Although it’s possible to lay pavers directly on the ground without digging, over time they’ll sink and become uneven, which may lead to cracked pavers and full-on invasion by weeds and grasses. Before you install pavers, you must mark the area to be paved and remove the sod or grass and any other plants, such as shrubs, from the area. Using a sod cutter or shovel blade, cut into the sod around the perimeter of the area you are paving.
Dig it up in strips to a depth of 2 to 3 inches and compost it or plant it in another area. Use a shovel to remove enough soil to accommodate the depth of the base plus the thickness of the pavers. Laying pavers requires sturdy edging along any side not in contact with a wall or other rigid structure so the base and pavers don’t shift after installation. Rubber or metal garden edging, heavy plastic garden edging or wood boards make suitable edging materials. The height of the edging must at least equal the thickness of the base plus pavers and should be dug in so the top of the edging is level with the surface of the ground. Successful paver installation begins with a firm base.